Myanmar - the last country in our South East Asia trip. Trying to keep the posts more manageable as not sure what connectivity we will have as we head north, so here are two cities visited in just two days.
Weds 9 Feb
Smooth flight with Bangkok Airways from Luang Prabang to Yangon, via Bangkok.
We arrived at The Union Square hotel at 10pm. Nice and clean hotel, with friendly staff - but 4 km north of the main sights of Yangon, and on a busy main road!
Thurs 8 Feb
Jess felt unwell, so opted to take a day off. I grabbed a taxi and headed to the number one destination in Yangon - the massive Shwedagon Paua Pagoda, first constructed between 6 & 10th centuries by the Mon people, but rebuilt several times, with the current amazing golden edifice built after an earthquake damaged the site in 1768.
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| Top of the 105m zedi (stupa) with 27 tons of gold leaf, diamonds and gems. The umbrella crown is tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. Immediately before the diamond bud is a flag-shaped vane. The very top —the diamond bud—is tipped with a 76 carat (15 g) diamond. |
Lunch stop nearby in “long-standing institution” Aung Thukkha, where you select a wide range of local currries. Busy with locals and delicious.
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| Aung Thukka restaurant |
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| Prawn and mutton curries plus veggies & rice |
Then a 2km walk through crumbling, almost decrepit streets to the next sights.
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| Ngahtatgyi Paua: 46 ft tall seated Buddha, and incredible carved wood backdrop |
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| Old wooden Monastery |
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| I was led into this 80 year old monk’s room at the above monastery for a blessing And they insisted on a photo, and a donation of course. |
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| Chaukhtatgyi Paya: 65m long reclining Buddha! |
Fri 9 Feb
Jess still not feeling great, so we sensibly opted to take an early plane from Yangon to Mandalay - rather than the overnight bus. Jess settled into the comfortable Tiger One Hotel and I set off to discover the sites of Mandalay. The name alone conjures up romantic images, but Kipling never actually came here (he was only in Burma for three days on a ship - visiting Rangoon (Yangon) and Moulmein), and temples aside, it’s not a particularly attractive place. It’s a dusty, hectic, growing city.
Clutching the city map, I planned to walk to the Eastern entrance of the Royal Palace; same mistake as Hue! The Palace is a massive square, with each outside wall measuring 2km long! Luckily I was befriended by a woman guide with a scooter - who agreed to take me to Mandalay Hill first, and then back to the Palace.
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| Royal Palace outside wall |
The hill is 240m high, and the 30 minute climb up countless steps with multiple Buddha’s (and shops) along the way is worth the flog, and apparently all part of the spiritual experience!
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| Hazy view from the top of Mandalay Hill towards Royal Palace |
Hidden away at the top is also a small plaque commemorating the intensive battle in March 1945 by the Ghurkas to take the Hill from the Japanese.
Next stop impressive Shwenandaw Kyaung - or Golden Palace. This teak monastery has incredible carved walls - and was actually dismantled and relocated to this site in 1883.
Then last stop the Royal Palace - thankfully still with my lovely guide to save me walking miles. This was built in 1858, and used by the last Kings of the country, but the Palace was then taken over by the British at the end of the third Anglo-Burmese war in 1885. In 1945, shortly after the battle to take Mandalay Hill, the Royal Palace burnt down - but it was never ascertained if it was aerial bombardment, artillery or the Japanese who were responsible for the fire. There is now a modern replica on the huge site.
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| My scooter guide! |
Sat 10 Feb
Off by minibus to Hsipaw in the north. Six hours, but the famous train journey via the Gotlek viaduct is ten hours!
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