Iceland Final: Golden Circle 29-30 July

Second section of Gullfoss

Sun 29

Slightly late start thanks to Netflix binge viewing (!), we set off to tackle the “Golden circle” in an anti-clockwise direction (clockwise is the norm) at 10.45. This is Iceland's hugely popular 1-day route tackling three main sites within 100km of the capital. We added a quick stop at the Kerio volcanic crater: 55m deep, about 3,000 years old and with a wonderful hue of blue, greens, browns and reds. 

Kerio crater

Then onto the busy but still impressive Geysir - where we watched Strokkur perform several times, shooting plumes of steam 15-30m into the air.  The original Geysir is currently far less active (was 80m!) - but gave it’s name to the relatively rare and entrancing phenomenon of geysers. 

Strokkur geyser in action

[Ben film to follow]

Then a short distance to Gullfoss, Icleand’s best known waterfall. It’s two tiered, with the second section thundering into a narrow ravine.

Gullfoss

Then 45 minutes across harsh, open volcanic plains to Þingvellir  (Thingvellir) national park.  This is where Iceland’s National Assembly was established in 930 AD, and continued to convene here until 1798. It is also geologically special, with the rift Valley clear visual evidence of the continental drift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates

Almannagja great rift (moving at 1-18mm per year!!)

Logberg (law rock)

Waterfall Oxararfoss

We cut short our walk inspecting this popular historical and geological site as the rains increased, bolted to the car, and back to our AirBnB to pack, conclude season 1 of Stranger Things (addictive Netflix!) and have a fajita feast!

The Golden Circle is definitely worth doing, but it did of course feel very crowded after two wonderful weeks out on the Ring Road. There are plenty of Golden Circle tour busses, but ideally take your own car and - if the weather’s nice - head out early to beat the crowds at Gullfoss and Geysir, and then make more of the walks in the Pingvellir park.  There are also many more sites to visit on the loop if time and weather permits.

Mon 30 

Smooth Lagoon car hand over and check-in, and Easyjet back to Gatwick. England of course felt lovely and hot to us after three weeks at 15°C..

We have had the most amazing three weeks in Iceland. Yes - all the locals have been muttering about the worst summer in 100 years - but we seem to have been lucky with the weather with only two days of proper rain.  

We were also incredibly lucky to be able to take three weeks, allowing us to do the Laugavegur hike, and then two weeks for the Ring Road.  Route 1 is ‘only’ 1,330km - so you could theoretically blast round in a week or less - but then you wouldn’t have time to branch off and explore properly. We did 2,700 km in 11 days, as we didn’t take the car to the Westman Islands.

Iceland is eye-wateringly expensive - but we self-catered almost the entire trip, and bought all the packet hiking food with us from the UK. If you avoid restaurants, shop carefully, give up beer (yup: beer-free July!), minimise retail therapy (genuine Icelandic jumpers @ £250, and trendiest outdoor brand 66° North makes Gucci look cheap) , and use AirBnB/ Booking.com for self-cater accommodation then you can do Iceland on a sensible budget. 

Iceland is a fascinating country, with phenomenal scenery - from the sublime waterfalls to the bleak volcanic deserts - but don’t ask me what the single highlight was. There were simply too many wonderful experiences and all four of us loved it. 

• Laugavegur hike: do it!
• Whales in Husavik: we were blessed with our calm, sunset evening trip.
• Beauty and emptiness of the north & east on Route 1
• Waterfalls & green volcanoes abound
• Glacier walk truly magical
• watching puffins close up on Westerman's green cliffs

L-R: Ben, Annie, CSB & Jess